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Gion Matsuri: un’esperienza unica

Photo credit: Daranice

La Festa di Gion o Gion Matsuri (祗園祭), così come viene chiamato a partire dall’epoca Meiji, prende il suo nome dal noto quartiere di Kyōto, Gion appunto, situato nel distretto di Higashiyama. Si tratta di una festa religiosa in onore del dio Susanoo, anche conosciuto come Takehaya Susanoo-no-Mikoto, venerato presso il santuario Yasaka.
Susanoo, dio del mare e delle tempeste, è anche signore del mondo dei morti, oltre ad essere fratello di Amaterasu da cui si dice discenda la stirpe degli imperatori giapponesi.

Insieme allo Aoi Matsuri (15 Maggio) e allo Jidai Matsuri (22 Ottobre), il Gion Matsuri costituisce una delle tre più grandi feste religiose di Kyōto, e del Giappone. Viene celebrato ogni estate per tutto il mese di luglio. Lo scopo è quello di placare gli spiriti dei defunti e invocare la protezione del dio sulla città per tenere lontano malattie e catastrofi naturali.

Come potete immaginare si tratta di un matsuri ricco di eventi. I principali e più spettacolari sono la Yamaboko Junkō ( 山鉾巡行, sfilata dei carri) e il Mikoshi Togyo (神輿渡御, l’uscita dei palanchini divini). Entrambi si svolgono tra il 17 luglio e il 24 luglio, giorni in cui la festa raggiunge il suo apice.
Una delle ragioni maggiori della spettacolarità di questo festival è sicuramente la grandezza dei carri utilizzati, in particolari quelli chiamati Hoko. Questi raggiungono anche i 25 metri di altezza per un peso di più di 10 tonnellate, e vengono trainati grazie a delle ruote alte circa due metri. Ogni carro viene ogni anno costruito dalle fondamenta, e poi smantellato al termine del festival, e tutti i pezzi sono tenuti insieme senza l’utilizzo di viti, come da tradizione.
Ma procediamo con ordine…

Un pò di storia

photo credit: kyotodeasobo.com

Tradizione vuole che il Gion Matsuri sia nato nell’anno 869. Da circa un secolo la corte imperiale giapponese si era sposta da Nara a Heiya-kyō (la odierna Kyōto) ed era dominata dalla potente famiglia Fujiwara.
Si dice che in seguito alla diffusione di un’epidemia, la Corte Imperiale decise di tenere il primo goryōe (御霊会), un rito purificatore tenuto presso il piccolo tempio Shinsen’en. Bisogna sapere che a quei tempi la città si trovava in una regione piuttosto paludosa dell’entroterra, molto calda ed umida. L’alta concentrazione di popolazione unita alla mancanza di fognature e condotte idriche spesso favoriva la contaminazione delle acque potabili con quelle di scolo. Non è quindi difficile immaginare che malattie come malaria, vaiolo, influenza e dissenteria fossero molto diffuse. Eppure, nell’antico Giappone la causa di tutto questo fu attribuita a ben altro.

photo credit: japancheapo.com

Secondo le predizioni di un maestro divinatore i veri responsabili dell’epidemia erano degli spiriti malvagi, ovvero i fantasmi del principe Sawara Shinnō e dei suoi compagni. Questi, accusati dell’omicidio del nobile Fujiwara no Tanetsugu, erano morti professando fino alla fine la loro innocenza.
Nel tentativo di calmare gli spiriti si tenne quindi il primo goryōe con invocazione al dio Susanoo. Inoltre, il nobile Urabe Hiramaru fece erigere 66 lance, una per ogni provincia del Giappone, in modo da rinchiudere al loro interno gli spiriti malvagi e purificare la capitale.
Proprio qui nacque l’usanza di portare in processione tre mikoshi, o palanchini divini, e di tenere un goryōe ogni volta che una epidemia o malattia si diffondeva. Il tutto era contornato da altre celebrazioni e momenti gioviali.
Fino al 970, quando venne stabilito che il Gion Goryōe (祗園御霊会) si dovesse svolgere regolarmente ogni anno.

Successivamente, a partire dal periodo Muromachi, l’evento fu arricchito ulteriormente dalla presenza dei tipici carri, gli yamaboko (山鉾), anche essi fatti sfilare per le vie della città. Questi erano costruiti grazia alla collaborazione del ceto mercantile che proprio in questo periodo vive un momento di forte ascesa dopo secoli di denigrazione. I carri venivano adornati con decorazioni che si fecero nel tempo sempre più ricche e sofisticate.
Insomma, la sfilata divenne anche un modo per esibire la ricchezza del ceto mercantile.

Nonostante brevi interruzioni (durante la guerra Ōnin (1467-1477) e durante la seconda guerra mondiale (1941-1945) ), il festival viene ancora oggi mantenuto vivo e può vantare una storia lunga più di mille anni.

I festeggiamenti

I festeggiamenti che come dicevamo durano per tutto il mese di luglio coinvolgono tutte le varie aree della città.

Si inizia il primo di luglio, quando presso il santuario Yasaka si tiene la cerimonia del Kippuiri (吉符入). Qui, i rappresentanti dei quartieri responsabili dell’organizzazione pregano perché tutto si svolga tranquillamente e senza incidenti.

Il 2 luglio, presso il palazzo comunale di Kyōto, si svolge una estrazione presieduta dal sindaco della città con cui viene scelto l’ordine di processione dei carri. Aprire la processione però spetta sempre al Naginataboko (長刀鉾).

photo credit: heterophyllum

Il 10 luglio vengono preparati i mikoshi (神輿), tre palanchini che ospiteranno tre piccoli tempietti dedicati al dio Susanoo. Contemporaneamente, alcuni secchi vengono calati dal ponte Shijō per raccogliere dal sacro fiume Kamo l’acqua destinata al lavaggio dei mikoshi. Nel tardo pomeriggio si tiene poi una sfilata esibendo lanterne di carta di manifattura tradizionale che serviranno ad accogliere il dio.

Sempre il 10 luglio ha inizio anche la costruzione dei carri e passeggiando per le vie del centro di Kyōto potrete osservarli prendere lentamente forma sotto le mani sapienti dei loro costruttori.

I giorni tra il 14 al 16 luglio sono quelli che precedono la festa vera e propria. Il 14 luglio è conosciuto come yoi-yoi-yoi-yama (宵々々山), il 15 luglio come yoi-yoi-yama (宵々山) mentre il 16 è chiamato yoi-yama (宵山). Lo stesso varrà per il 21,22 e 23 luglio. In questi giorni, a partire dalle ore 6:00 del pomeriggio, le vie del centro chiuse al traffico si riempiono del vociare di passanti e turisti. Si passeggia tra le numerose bancarelle, alla luce delle lanterne tenute sempre accese, ammirando yamaboko.
Sempre in questo periodo, le famiglie più antiche della città aprono le finestre delle loro case permettendo così ai passanti di ammirare i tesori che custodiscono da generazioni.

Il 15 luglio, si tengono lo imitaketate (斎竹建) e lo yoimiya-sai (宵宮祭). Il primo è un rito durante il quale si dispongono a quadrato dei tronchi di bambù intorno all’area in cui si svolgerà la processione per proteggerla da ogni contaminazione. Lo yoimiya-sai si tiene invece presso il santuario di Yasaka, durante il quale lo spirito della divinità viene trasferito nei tre mikoshi purificati.

photo credit:  Tomomi Onishi

Il 16 luglio i musicanti di ogni carro si recano al tempio per pregare per il bel tempo il giorno successivo e non mancano spettacoli musicali e di danza per le strade.

Il 17 luglio è l’atteso giorno in cui la festa raggiunge il suo culmine. È il momento dello Yamaboko Junkō, la grande sfilata dei carri. Questi vengono divisi in 2 gruppi gli yama 山 (montagna) e gli hoko 鉾 (lancia) appunto. Il primo gruppo è formato dai 9 carri hoko, e simboleggiano le 66 lance utilizzate da Urabe Hiramaru per scacciare gli spiriti maligni. Il secondo gruppo è formato dai 23 carri yama, più piccoli, che trasportano rappresentazioni a grandezza naturale di personaggi importanti e famosi.
Ogni carro hoko trasporta musicanti che ne accompagnano la processione.
Kon-kon chiki-chin, kon-kon chiki-chin… questo è il suono distintivo del Gion Matsuri, una ritmo tradizionale risalente al periodo Edo.
E non mancano per le strade danzatori ed acrobati di vario genere a rendere la parata ancora più allegra e movimentata. Ovviamente tutti sono vestiti con costumi colorati e rigorosamente tradizionali.

Come già detto ad aprire la parata sarà il carro Naginata-boko. Viene così chiamato per via di una naginata (tipica lancia giapponese) che svetta verso l’alto sulla sua cima. Si dice che essa abbia il potere di scacciare spiriti maligni e pestilenze. La naginata originale di epoca Heian era stata forgiata in metallo, mentre quella che oggi possiamo ammirare è fatta in bambù.

Sul Naginataboko viene trasportato anche un chigo, (稚児), un bambino vestito con ricchi abiti tradizionali e un copricapo a forma di fenice dorata. Questo bambino ha il compito di rappresentare il dio durante la festa.
Il prescelto, solitamente selezionato tra le più importanti famiglie di mercanti e commercianti di Kyōto, deve sottoporsi ad un lungo periodo di preparazione prima di poter ricoprire questo ruolo. Settimane di riti purificatori e di completo isolamento, lontano da tutto ciò che potrebbe contaminarlo, e quindi anche dalle donne. Non gli è nemmeno permesso di toccare il suolo comune ma viene portato in spalla da uomini incaricati del suo trasporto
Al bambino spetterà il compito di tagliare con un solo colpo una grossa corda sacra realizzata in paglia. È lo Shimenawa-kiri (しめ縄切り), atto con cui la divinità entra nel mondo terreno recidendo il confine che separa i due mondi, e con questo gesto viene dato ufficialmente inizio alla grande festa.

photo credit:  picssr.com

Nel tardo pomeriggio, si assiste invece all’uscita dal tempio dei palanchini divini ovvero il mikoshi togyo. È il momento tanto atteso dello Shinkō-sai (神幸祭), ovvero l’uscita della divinità dal tempio con i palanchini portati a spalla per le vie della città.

Il 24 luglio questa doppia sfilata viene ripetuta e alla sera i tre mikoshi vengono riportati al tempio al tempio. È il momento del Kankō-sai (還幸祭), con il quale lo spirito del dio ritorna definitivamente al mondo che gli appartiene.
Al termine della sfilata i carri vengono immediatamente smantellati e conservati per il festival successivo.

photo credit:  Tomomi Onishi

Lo stesso giorno si svolge la Hanagasa Junkō (花傘巡行), evento che come suggerisce il nome stesso ha come protagonista i fiori. Questo nome viene infatti scritto con i caratteri di hana (花) ovvero fiore, e kasa (傘) ovvero ombrello. Durante questa parata, i carri e le persone che sfilano sono tutti adornati da ombrelli e cappelli abbelliti da fiori.
La parata è aperta da piccoli mikoshi trasportati questa volta da bambini e al loro seguito troviamo un corteo numerosissimo di persone in abiti tradizionali. Ci sono i rappresentanti di associazioni culturali e commerciali, musicisti, danzatori,acrobati e in particolare alcune tra le più note geisha e maiko della città. E sono proprio loro i fiori più belli da mettere in mostra.

photo credit: geimei.tumblr.com

Il 28 luglio c’è la cerimonia del mikoshi-arai (神輿洗式), il lavaggio dei mikoshi presso il santuario Yasaka, per purificare i palanchini, fino al prossimo anno.
Se vi trovate nei paraggi non perdevi questo momento. Si dice infatti che porti fortuna essere colpiti dagli schizzi dell’acqua destinata al dio.

A segnare la fine del Gion Matsuri è il festival del nagoshisai (夏越祭), che si tiene ogni anno il 31 di luglio presso il santuario Ekijin.
Legato al torii, il ‘cancello’ che segna l’ingresso dell’area sacra del tempio, si trova una grossa corda di paglia intrecciata a formare un cerchio del diametro di due metri, lo Chinowa (茅の輪).
Passate pure attraverso questo grande cerchio per essere purificati, e ricevere poi un talismano di protezione sul quale troverete scritto “Somin-shorai shison nari(蘇民将来子孫也) che significa “Sono un discendente di Somin Shorai”. Secondo la leggenda Somin Shorai era un uomo umile che un giorno accolse in casa un viandante che era già stato rifiutato da un ricco signore. Il viandante era in realtà una divinità che per ringraziarlo della sua ospitalità gli insegno come costruire questi talismani porta fortuna. Da allora si crede che questi abbiano il potere di allontanare catastrofi e ladri.

photo credit: kyoto-tabiya.com

photo credit: kyotoiju.com

Quello del Gion Matsuri è un lungo viaggio in cui si intrecciano storia e leggenda, religione e spettacolo. Un evento unico nel suo genere.
E voi? Avete mai avuto occasione di prendervi parte? Aspettiamo i vostri commenti e le vostre esperienze![:en]

Gion Matsuri: an unique experience

photo credit: Daranice

The Gion Festival or Gion Matsuri (祗園祭), as it is known since the Meiji era, takes its name from a famous area in Kyōto; Gion, Higashiyama district. It’s a religious celebration dedicated to the Susanoo God, also known as Takehaya Susanoo-no-Mikoto, who is worshipped in the Yasaka shrine.
Susanoo, God of the sea and storms, is also the God of the dead, as well as Amaterasu’s brother, from whom the Japanese Emperor’s family line is believed to descend from.

Together with the Aoi Matsuri (May 15th) and the Jidai Matsuri (October 22nd), the Gion Matsuri is one of the three biggest religious festivals in Kyōto and Japan as well. It is held every summer for the whole month of July and is meant to calm the spirits of the dead and ask for protection over the city to the God so that he can keep illnesses and natural disasters away.

As you can imagine it’s a matsuri full of events. The most important and the biggest crowd-drawers are the Yamaboko Junkō ( 山鉾巡行, float’s parade) and the Mikoshi Togyo (神輿渡御, the parade of the divine palanquins). Both of these events are held between July 17th and 24th, when the festival reaches its climax.
One of the main reasons for the spectacularity of this festival is the size of the floats, especially the ones called Hoko. They can be up to 25 meters tall with a weight of over 10 tons that moves thanks to wheels the size of around 2 meters in diameter. Every float is rebuilt every year from scratch and then destroyed at the end of every festival. All the pieces are held together without the use of screws, as tradition dictates.

A little bit of history

photo credit: kyotodeasobo.com

Historically, Gion Matsuri began in 869. Since about century ago, the Imperial court moved from Nara to Heiya-kyō (today’s Kyōto) and it was ruled by the Fujiwara family.
It is said that it was during a plague that the Imperial court decided to hold the first goryōe (御霊会), a purification ritual in the small Shinsen’en shrine. At the time, the city was situated in a swampy area and was thus very hot and humid. High concentrations of people together with the absence of a proper drainage system made it easy for waste water to contaminate clean water. It’s not difficult to imagine that illnesses like malaria, smallpox, flu and dysentery became widespread. However, in ancient Japan the, cause of all this was said to be something else entirely.

photo credit: japancheapo.com

According to the divination of a master priest, the real cause of the plagues were devious spirits, identified as the ghosts of prince Sawara Shinnō and his companions. They, accused of the murder of the noble Fujiwara no Tanetsugu, died professing their innocence till their final moments.
The first goryōe was held while trying to calm the spirit by invoking the Susanoo God. Furthermore, the noble Urabe Hiramaru raised 66 spears, one for each Japanese region, so to enclose the evil spirits inside and purify the capital.
It was here that the custom of bringing three mikoshis, or divine palanquins, into procession was born, and it was also decided that a goryōe had to be held every time that a plague or illness was spreading.
Everything was accompanied by other celebrations and joyful moments.
It was in 970 when it was decided that the Gion Goryōe (祗園御霊会) had to be held every year.

From the Muromachi period onwards, the event was enriched with floats, the yamaboko (山鉾) which was paraded along the streets of the city. These were built thanks to the collaboration of the merchant class that in this very period lived a moment of success after centuries of denigration. Floats were adorned with decorations that became richer and more sophisticated year after year.
In other words, the parade also became a way to show off the wealth of the merchant class.

In spite of some small interruptions (during the Ōnin war (1467-1477) and during World War II (1941-1945) ), the festival still lives on today as a proud tradition of more than a thousand years of history.

Celebrations

Celebrations that, as we said, go on for the whole month of July involve all the different areas of the city.

It kicks off on July 1st, where a ceremony called Kippuiri (吉符入) is held at the Yasaka shrine, Here, representatives of all the districts of the city in charge of the organization of the festival pray so that it can proceed smoothly and with no incidents.

On July 2nd, at the Town Hall of Kyōto, a lottery headed by the mayor of the city takes place. It is through this that the order of the floats for the parade is decided. Till now, the opening the procession is always done by the Naginataboko (長刀鉾).

photo credit: heterophyllum

On July 10th, the preparation of the mikoshi (神輿) starts. Three palanquins that will house the three small shrines dedicated to Susanoo is prepared. At the same time, a few buckets are immersed from the Shijō bridge into the sacred waters of the Kamo river to draw the water that will be used to wash the mikoshi. In the late afternoon, there’s also a parade with the exhibition of paper lanterns of traditional manufacturing that will be used to receive the God.

The building of the floats will also begin on this day and if you walk along the central streets of Kyōto, you’ll be able to see them slowly taking shape in the hands of their wise builders.

The days between the 14th and the 16th are those immediately preceding the main celebration. July 14th is known as yoi-yoi-yoi-yama (宵々々山), the 15th as yoi-yoi-yama (宵々山) while the 16th is called yoi-yama (宵山). The same goes for July the 21st, 22nd and 23rd. During these days, the streets closed to traffic from 6:00 p.m and they will be filled with visitors and tourists. Here you can walk around the vending stands, under the light of the paper lanterns always kept alive, while admiring the yamabokos.

And it is also on these days that ancient families of the town open up their window so that people passing by can admire ancient heirlooms that have been kept for generations.

On July 15th, the imitaketate (斎竹建) and the yoimiya-sai (宵宮祭) are held. The first one is a ritual in which bamboo trunks are put together in a square shape to delimit the area of the procession and protect it from contamination. On the other hand, the yoimiya-sai is held at Yasaka shrine, and durig this ritual the spirit of the god is transferred into the 3 portable mikoshi that have already been purified.

photo credit:  Tomomi Onishi

In July 16th the musicians from all the floats go to the temple to pry for good weather for the next day, and they are all accompanied by music and dancing events along the way.

July 17th is the long awaited climax of the festival. It is the moment for the Yamaboko Junkō, the great floats parade. Floats are divided into 2 groups, yama 山 (mountain) and hoko 鉾 (spear). The opening group carries the 9 hoko floats which symbolize the 66 spears used by Urabe Hiramaru to drive away the evil spirits. The second group brings 23 yama floats, smaller than the hokos, that carry life-size representations of important and famous characters.
Every hoko carries musicians who accompany the procession with their music.
Kon-kon chiki-chin, kon-kon chiki-chin… This is the distinctive sound of the Gion Matsuri, a traditional rhythm dating back to the Edo period.
Along the parade, a profusion of many different dancers and acrobats make it even more joyful and lively. Each and every one of them will be dressed in colorful and rigorously traditional clothes.

It was earlier mentioned that the parade is lead by the Naginata-boko, named after the naginata (traditional Japanese spear) that springs up from its top, and that is said to have the power to drive away evil spirits and plagues. The original Heian naginata had been forged in metal, but the one we can admire today is made of bamboo.

It is on the Naginataboko that a chigo (稚児) is carried. The chigo is a young child dressed up in rich, traditional clothes with a golden phoenix-shaped headgear. This child represents the God during this festival.
The chosen one, usually selected from the most powerful and important merchant and commercial families of the town, has to undergo a long preparation period before he is allowed to take on this role. Weeks of purification rites and complete isolation, away from everything that could contaminate him, including women. He is not even allowed to walk on common ground but he is carried by men in charge of this duty.
He will have the duty to cut a big sacred thatch rope with a single blow. This is the Shimenawa-kiri (しめ縄切り), an act through which the divinity enters the human world by severing the limit that devised the two worlds, and it is with this act that the great celebration officially starts.

photo credit:  picssr.com

In the late afternoon, the mikoshi togyo takes place where the three mikoshis leave the temple. It is the long awaited Shinkō-sai (神幸祭), or the emerging of the divinity from the temple with its palanquins carried on shoulders around the streets of the city.

On July 24th, this double procession is repeated and in the evening and the three mikoshis are brought back to their temple. This is the Kankō-sai (還幸祭), through which the spirit of the God finally returns to the world he belongs to.
At the end of the parade, the floats are immediately dismantled and all pieces kept until the next festival.

photo credit:  Tomomi Onishi

On the same day takes also place the Hanagasa Junkō (花傘巡行), an event that, as suggested from the name, has flowers as its main feature. In fact, it is written with the kanjis of hana (花) or flower, and kasa (傘) or umbrella. During the parade, the floats and all participants parading along the streets are all decorated with umbrellas and hats embellished with flowers.
The parade is opened by small mikoshis carried by young children, then follows a large parade of people in traditional clothes. There are representatives of social and cultural associations, musicians, dancers, acrobats and in particular some of the most famous geishas and maikos of the town. And they surely are the loveliest flowers displayed the event.

photo credit: geimei.tumblr.com

On July the 28, takes place the ceremony of the mikoshi-arai (神輿洗式), or the ritual of washing the mikoshis at Yasaka shrine, to purify the three palanquins, till next year.
If you are around, don’t miss them. In fact, it is said that being hit by a little splash of the water dedicated to the god brings good luck.

The nagoshisai (夏越祭) festival marks the end of the Gion Matsuri and is held every July 31st at Ekijin shrine.
Tied to the tori, the entrance gate that marks the beginning of the sacred area of the temple, is a big thatch rope in the shape of a circle 2 meters in diameter. This is the Chinowa (茅の輪).
Please do pass through it to be purified. You’ll then receive a protection charm on which “Somin-shorai shison nari(蘇民将来子孫也)” is written. It means “I am a descendant of Somin Shorai”. According to the legend, Somin Shorai was a simple man who one day happened to give hospitality to a traveler that had already been refused by a rich man. The traveler then reveals himself as a God and to thank him for his hospitality teaches him how to make lucky charms. Since then it is believed that these charms can push away catastrophe and thieves.

photo credit: kyoto-tabiya.com

photo credit: kyotoiju.com

That of the Gion Matsuri in a long trip in which History and legend, religion and entertainment are entwined together. It is real a one-of-a-kind event.
And you? Have you ever been able to take part to it? We are waiting for your comments and experiences![:ja]

Gion Matsuri: an unique experience

photo credit: Daranice

The Gion Festival or Gion Matsuri (祗園祭), this is how it has been called since the Meiji era, takes its name from the famous Kyōto area, Gion, Higashiyama district. It’s a religious celebration dedicated to the Susanoo God, also known as Takehaya Susanoo-no-Mikoto, worshiped in the Yasaka shrine.
Susanoo, God of the sea and storms, it’s also the God of the dead, as well as Amaterasu’s brother, from whom the Japanese Emperor’s family line is believe do descend.

Together with the Aoi Matsuri (May 15th) and the Jidai Matsuri (October 22nd), the Gion Matsuri is one of the three biggest religious festivals in Kyōto, and Japan as well. It is held every summer for the whole month of July. It is meant to calm the spirits of the dead and ask for protection over the city to the God so that he can keep illnesses and natural disasters away.

As you can imagine it’s a matsuri full of events. The most important and attractive are the Yamaboko Junkō ( 山鉾巡行, float’s parade) and the Mikoshi Togyo (神輿渡御, parade of the devine palanquins). Both this events are held between July 17th and 24th, when the festival reaches its climax.
One of the main reasons for the spectacularity of this festival is surely the size of the floats, especially the ones called Hoko. They can even be 25 meters high with a weight of over 10 tons that can move thanks to wheels about 2 meters of diameter. Every float is rebuilt every year from scratch, and then destroyed at the end of every festival. All the pieces are held together without the use of screws, as tradition wants.
But let’s move ahead with order…

A little bit of history

photo credit: kyotodeasobo.com

Tradition says that Gion Matsuri was born in 869. Since a century or so, the Imperial court had moved from Nara to Heiya-kyō (today’s Kyōto) and it was dominated by the Fujiwara family.
It is said that during a plague, the Imperial court decided to hold the first goryōe (御霊会), a purification ritual in the small Shinsen’en shrine. You need to know that at the time the city was situated in a very swampy area, very hot and humid. High concentration of people together with the absence of a proper drainage system made it easy for waste waters to contaminate clean waters. It’s not difficult to imagine that illnesses like malaria, smallpox, flu and dysentery became widely present. However, in ancient Japan the cause of all this was said to be something else entirely.

photo credit: japancheapo.com

According to the prediction of a master priest, the real cause of the plagues were devious spirits, identified in the ghosts of prince Sawara Shinnō and his companions. They, accused of the murder of the noble Fujiwara no Tanetsugu, died professing their innocence till the last moments.
The first goryōe was held while trying to calm the spirit by invoking the Susanoo God. Furthermore, the noble Urabe Hiramaru raised 66 spears, one for each Japanese region, so to enclose the evil spirits inside and purify the capital.
It was here that the custom of bringing three mikoshis, or divine palanquins, into procession was born, and it was also decided that a goryōe had to be head every time that a plague or illness was spreading.
Everything was accompanied by other celebrations and joyful moments.
Until 970, when it was decided that the Gion Goryōe (祗園御霊会) had to be held every year.

Afterward, starting from the Muromachi period, the event was enriched with the typical floats, the yamaboko (山鉾), also parading along the streets of the city. These were built thanks to the collaboration of the merchant class that in this very period lives a moment of success after centuries of denigration. Floats were adorned with decorations that became richer and more sophisticated year after year.
In other words, the parade also became a way to show off the richness of the merchant class.

In spite of some small interruptions (during the Ōnin war (1467-1477) and during World War II (1941-1945) ), the festival still lives today and can be proud of more than a thousand years of history.

Celebrations

Celebrations that,as we said, go on for the whole month of July, involve all the different areas of the city.

It kicks off on July 1st, where a ceremony called Kippuiri (吉符入) is held at the Yasaka shrine, Here, representatives of all the districts of the city in charge of the organization of the festival pray so that the it can proceed smoothly and with no incidents.

On July 2nd, at the Town Hall of Kyōto, takes place a lottery headed by the mayor of the city, through which the order of the floats for the parade is decided. Still, opening the procession is always duty of the Naginataboko (長刀鉾).

photo credit: heterophyllum

On July 10th, starts the preparation of the mikoshi (神輿), three palanquins that will house three small shrines dedicated to Susanoo. At the same time, a few buckets are immersed from the Shijō bridge into the sacred waters of Kamo river to draw the water that will be used to wash the mikoshi. In the late afternoon there’s also a parade with the exhibition of paper lanterns of traditional manufacturing that will be used to receive the God.

Also on the 10th, starts the building of the floats and walking along central streets of Kyōto you’ll be able to see theme slowly taking shape by the hands of their wise builders.

The days between the 14th and the 16th are those immediately preceding the main celebration. July 14th is known as yoi-yoi-yoi-yama (宵々々山), the 15th as yoi-yoi-yama (宵々山) while the 16th is called yoi-yama (宵山). The same goes for July the 21st,22nd e 23rd. During this days, starting from 6:00 p.m, the streets closed to traffic overflow with visitors and tourists voices. Here you can walk around vending stands, under the light of the paper lanterns always kept alive, admiring the yamabokos.
And it is also in this days that ancient families of the town open up their window so that people passing by can admire ancient treasures guarded for generations.

On July 15th, the imitaketate (斎竹建) and the yoimiya-sai (宵宮祭) are held. The first one is a ritual during which bamboo truncks are put together in square shape to delimit the area of the procession and protect it from contamination. On the other hand the yoimiya-sai is held at Yasaka shrine, and durig this ritual the spirit of the god is transferred into the 3 portable mikoshi that have already been purified.

photo credit:  Tomomi Onishi

In July 16th the musicians from all the floats go to the temple to pry for good weather the following day, and all is accompanied with music and dancing events along the way.

July 17th is the long awaited day in which the festival reaches its climax. It is the moment of the Yamaboko Junkō, the great floats parade. Floats are divided into 2 groups, yama 山 (mountain) and hoko 鉾 (spear). The opening group it that of the 9 hoko floats, and they symbolize the 66 spears used by Urabe Hiramaru to drive away the evil spirits. The second group is that of the 23 yama floats, smaller than the hokos, that carry life-size representations of important and famous personalities.
Every hoko carries musicians that accompanying the procession with their music.
Kon-kon chiki-chin, kon-kon chiki-chin… This is the distinctive sound of the Gion Matsuri, a traditional rhythm dating back to the Edo period.
And along the parade a profusion of many different dancers and acrobats make it even more joyful and lively. Obviously each and every one of them is dressed in colorful and rigorously traditional clothes.

Has said before the parade is lead by the Naginata-boko, called after the naginata (typical Japanese spear) that springs up from its top, and that is said to have the power to drive away evil spirits and plagues. The original Heian naginata had been forged in metal, but the one we can admire today is made of bamboo.

It is on the Naginataboko that a chigo (稚児) is carried, a young child dressed up in rich, traditional clothes with a golden phoenix-shaped headgear. This child has the duty to represent the God during the festival.
The chosen one, usually selected from the most powerful and important merchant and commercial families of the town, has to undergo a long preparation period before he is allowed to take on this role. Weeks of purification rites and complete isolation, away from everything that could contaminate him, including women. He is not even allowed to walk on common ground but he is carried by men in charge of this duty.
He will have the duty to cut with a single blow a big sacred thatch rope. This is the Shimenawa-kiri (しめ縄切り), an act through which the divinity enters the human world severing the limit that devised the two worlds, and with this act the great celebration can officially starts.

photo credit:  picssr.com

In the late afternoon, takes place the mikoshi togyo, where the three mikoshis leave the temple. It is the long awaited Shinkō-sai (神幸祭), or the emerging of the divinity from the temple with its palanquins carried on shoulders around the streets of the city.

On July 24th this double procession is repeated and in the evening the three mikoshis are brought back to their temple. This is the moment of the Kankō-sai (還幸祭), through which the spirit of the God finally returns to the world he belongs to.
At the end of the parade the floats are immediately dismantled and all pieces kept until the next festival.

photo credit:  Tomomi Onishi

On the same day takes also place the Hanagasa Junkō (花傘巡行), an event that, as suggested from the name, has flowers as its protagonist. In fact, it is written with the kanjis of hana (花) or flower, and kasa (傘) or umbrella. During the parade, the floats and all participants parading along the streets are all decorated with umbrellas and hats embellished with flowers.
The parade is opened by small mikoshis carried by young children, then follows a large parade of people in traditional clothes. There are representatives of social and cultural associations, musicians, dancers, acrobats and in particular some of the most famous geishas and maikos of the town. And they surely are the loveliest flowers displayed the event.

photo credit: geimei.tumblr.com

On July the 28, takes place the ceremony of the mikoshi-arai (神輿洗式),or the ritual of washing the mikoshis at Yasaka shrine, to purify the three palanquins, till next year.
If you are around don’t miss this moments. In fact, it is said that being hit by little splash of the water dedicated to the god brings good luck..

To mark the end of the Gion Matsuri there is the nagoshisai (夏越祭) festival, that is held every July 31st at Ekijin shrine.
Tied to the tori, the entrance gate that marks the beginning of the sacred area of the temple, there is a big thatch rope in the shape of a circle with 2 meters in diameter. It is the Chinowa (茅の輪).
Please do pass through it to be purified, and then you’ll receive a protection charm on with there’s written “Somin-shorai shison nari(蘇民将来子孫也) that means “I’m Somin Shorai’s descendant”. According to the legend, Somin Shorai was a simple man that one day happened to give hospitality to a traveler that had already been refused by a rich man. The traveler then reveals himself as a God and to thank him for his hospitality teaches him how to make lucky charms. Since then it is believed that this charms can push away catastrophe and thieves.

photo credit: kyoto-tabiya.com

photo credit: kyotoiju.com

That of the Gion Matsuri in a long trip in which History and legend, religion and entertainment are entwined together. It is real a one-of-a-kind event.
And you? Have you ever been able to take part to it? We are waiting for your comments and experiences![:]