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La Tokyo nascosta: pellegrinaggio alla ricerca della buona fortuna.

Photo credits: japaneseprints.livejournal.com  

Il rapporto che i giapponesi hanno con la religione, e soprattutto con la spiritualità, è molto particolare. Non molto eclatante, a volte nascosto, ma è un legame sempre presente, fatto di piccoli gesti quotidiani e rituali. A volte, in occasioni particolarmente importanti o in periodi difficili si fa visita a questa o quella divinità per chiedere protezione e benevolenza. Tra le divinità più venerate in tutto il Paese ci sono quelle che vengono chiamate le ‘Sette Divinità della Fortuna’, in giapponese Shichi Fukuji (七福神).Non è quindi inusuale trovare brevi percorsi di pellegrinaggio in onore di questi dei.

Queste sette divinità sono arrivate in Giappone ormai secoli fa, e sono frutto di un lento processo di assimilazione. Processo che ha visto fondersi insieme Buddismo, Induismo, Taoismo e Shintoismo ovviamente. Camminando per un percorso prestabilito si toccano i templi di tutte e sette le divinità collezionando timbri o iscrizioni a commemorazione della visita.
Questi pellegrinaggi sono più frequenti durante le prime due settimane dell’anno. Questo è infatti il periodo in cui, secondo le antiche tradizioni giapponesi, le sette divinità approdano a terra con la loro ‘nave dei tesori’ distribuendo doni e buona fortuna a tutti.

Soltanto a Tokyo ci sono più di 20 percorsi di questo tipo e quello di cui vogliamo parlarvi oggi vi porterà alla scoperta di Yanaka.
Yanaka è una piccola perla risalente all’epoca Edo, incastonata tra alti palazzi, vie dello shopping e il famoso parco di Ueno. Il suo cuore antico ha saputo mantenersi intatto, ed è spesso meta di molti turisti che vogliono ritrovare nella grande metropoli un assaggio del suo passato.

Pellegrinaggio attraverso Yanaka

Photo credits: flickr.com – Patrick Kenawy

Questo percorso attraverso Yanaka inizia dalla stazione di Tabata, facilmente riconoscibile essendo una delle fermate della Linea Yamanote, che collega con il suo percorso circolare, tutte le zone di attrazione principale della città.

La vostra prima tappa sarà il tempio Tokakuji, a poca distanza dalla stazione.
Essendo questa la prima tappa del pellegrinaggio, qui potrete acquistare il rotolo rappresentante le sette divinità che poi vi verrà segnato ad ogni tappa.
Questo tempio ospita Fukurokuji, divinità che come suggerisce il nome stesso è il dio della saggezza, della ricchezza e della longevità. Spesso rappresentato calvo e con una fronte sproporzionatamente alta, è accompagnato da una gru e una tartaruga, simboli di longevità. A volte è presente un cervo nero. La sua statua è collocata nel giardino retrostante il tempio che viene aperto al pubblico solo per il Nuovo Anno.

Ma nonostante il tempio sia dedicato a Fukurokuji, la prima cosa che attirerà la vostra attenzione all’ingresso saranno due statue Nio. Queste due statue si ergono a protezione del tempio e anche dei malati che ne chiederanno la protezione. Si ritiene infatti che abbiano poteri curativi.
Se soffrite per qualche malanno, acquistate l’apposito foglietto di carta rossa presso il tempio e attaccatelo sulla statua li dove avvertite dolore. La divinità vi guarirà.

Sempre qui, potrete acquistare una mappa del percorso, per facilitarvi la strada.

Photo credits: flickr.com – realitycheck2002

La seconda tappa è il tempio Sei’un-ji, conosciuto anche come Hanamidera. Come suggerisce il nome, il tempio era, ed è ancora oggi, una meta particolarmente adatta ad assistere alla fioritura primaverile. Questo è possibile grazie agli alberi di ciliegio e alle azalee qui piantate nel XVIII secolo. Il tempio è dedicato al dio Ebisu, il più giovane tra i sette, divinità del commercio e protettore di pescatori e lavoratori, ma anche dei bambini piccoli.

Ad appena un minuto di distanza, si trova il terzo tempio del pellegrinaggio, il tempio Shusei-in che ospita Hotei. Questa divinità, conosciuta anche come il Budda che ride, è rappresentata come un uomo calvo e panciuto, dal sorriso bonario che spesso accompagnato da bambini. Hotei potrebbe essere associato al nostro Babbo Natale in quanto anche lui porta con se un sacco di doni che elargisce soprattutto ai bambini.
La statua di Hotei nel tempio Shusei-in è particolarmente bella. Fermatevi a pregare presso di essa, ma anche ad ammirare i murales dipinti che caratterizzano il tempio.

Photo credits: japantoday.com

Un pò più defilato è il tempio Choan-ji, la vostra tappa successiva.
Qui trova la sua dimora Jurojin, divinità della longevità. La sua rappresentazione è molto simile a quella di Fukurokuji ed è per questo che queste due divinità vengono spesso sovrapposte. Ma è possibile trovare anche Itabi, delle statuine erette per preservare il riposo delle anime dei morti risalenti al periodo Kamakura (1185-1333) e Muromachi (1336-1573). Il tempio Choan-ji ne ospita ben tre risalenti a questo periodo.

Superato questo tempio, dirigetevi verso il Cimitero di Yanaka e la vostra prossima destinazione sarà il tempio Tennoji. Esso vi accoglierà al suo ingresso con una grande statua di Budda risalente alla fine del 1600. Ma il vostro obbiettivo principale sarà un piccolo altare alla vostra destra. Qui risiede Bishamonte, il dio guerriero, rappresentato con una lancia e una pagoda tra le mani, a simbolo della sua duplice natura. È il dio dei guerrieri che punisce i malvagi, e l’associazione con il pacifico predicatore Budda non deve stupire. Bishamonten infatti, noto anche come Tamonten, è anche il protottero dei luoghi in cui Budda predica.

Penultima tappa di questo pellegrinaggio è il tempio Gokoku-in, dimora del dio Daikokuten, divinità della ricchezza e dei raccolti, ma anche protettore della casa e in particolare della cucina. Da notare un piccolo palco nel cortile antistante il tempio utilizzato per rappresentazioni in onore della divinità.

L’ ultima tappa, forse quella più bella, vi porterà ad attraversare il parco di Ueno fino ad arrivare al stagno Shinobazu e al tempio Bentendo.
Benten è ospitata in questo tempio, dea delle arti e della musica. Questa divinità si dice essere più felice quando è circondato dall’acqua, ecco perchè il tempio si trova vicino a questo stagno, e il suo simbolo è un liuto. Benten è anche la divinità della conoscenza e della saggezza, visitata quindi anche da coloro che desiderano avere successo sul lavoro o per un esame.
Il tempio, seppure una ricostruzione moderna, resta fedele alla struttura originaria ed è particolarmente riconoscibile per i suoi colori brillanti. Dominanti sono il rosso, il bianco e il verde acqua.

Photo credits: flickr.com – Toshihiro Gamo

Qui termina il pellegrinaggio, ma lungo il percorso non mancano certo le distrazioni che renderanno ancora più piacevole il vostro viaggio.

Lungo il percorso

Photo credits: Japan Italy Bridge

Lungo la strada troverete una miriade di altri piccoli templi sia buddisti che shintoisti. Fate una passeggiata nell’antico quartiere di Yanaka Ginza, proprio alle spalle della stazione di Nippori e fermatevi a mangiare qualcosa ad uno dei tanti chioschetti tradizionali della zona.
Appena fuori da Yanaka troverete il piccolo tempio Kyooji, sul cui portone centrale è possibile ancora vedere dei fori di proiettile. Questi segni sembrano risalire alla battaglia di Ueno del 1868 durante la quale le truppe imperiali cacciarono via dalla allora Edo le truppe fedeli allo shogun.
Il cimitero di Yanaka poi vi darà modo di fare una piccola sosta. Un luogo di pace che vi sorprenderà ancora di più durante la fioritura dei ciliegi.
Per non dimenticare il Parco di Ueno, un piccolo gioiello verde nel cuore di Tokyo. Meta rinomata per la sua meravigliosa fioritura dei ciliegi, ospita al suo interno anche per il famoso Zoo di Ueno con i suoi panda.

Photo credits: Japan Italy Bridge

Nel parco, tra gli altri, è presente anche il tempio Toshogu con la sua pagoda, dedicato a Tokugawa Ieyasu. Nel periodo tra aprile e maggio sarà anche possibile entrare nel bellissimo giardino che ospita una piccola ma impressionante collezione peonie, uno dei fiori più amati dai giapponesi.

Non mancano poi musei e negozi tradizionali, in un viaggio alla scoperta di una Tokyo un pò diversa da quella che siamo abituati a conoscere, ma certo altrettanto affascinante.[:en]

Hidden Tokyo: pilgrimage in search of good fortune.

Photo credits: japaneseprints.livejournal.com  

The relationship that Japan has with religion, and with spirituality in particular, is very peculiar. It is discrete, sometimes hidden, but it is an ever-present bond
made of everyday gestures and rituals. Sometimes, in particular occasions or in difficult moments, Japanese people pay a visit to this or that deity asking for protection and benevolence. Among the most revered deities in the whole country there are the ‘Seven Gods of Fortune’, in japanese Shichi Fukuji (七福神).It is therefore not unusual to find short pilgrimage routes in honor of these gods.

These seven deities arrived in Japan centuries ago and are the result of a slow process of assimilation. A process that saw Buddhism, Hinduism, Taoism and Shinto blend together. Walking through a fixed course reaching the temples of all the seven divinities, the pilgrim collects seven stamps or inscriptions to commemorate the visit.
These pilgrimages are more frequent during the first two weeks of the year. In fact, this is the period in which, according to ancient Japanese traditions, the seven deities land on the shore with their ‘ship of treasures’ distributing gifts and good fortune to everyone.

Only in Tokyo there are more than 20 such pilgrimage courses, and the one we want to talk about this time will take you on a journey of discovery through Yanaka.
Yanaka is a small pearl dating back to the Edo period, set among tall buildings, shopping streets and the famous Ueno park. Its ancient heart has been kept untouched, and is often the destination of many tourists who want to find in the great metropolis a taste of its past.

Pilgrimage through Yanaka

Photo credits: flickr.com – Patrick Kenawy

This path through Yanaka starts from Tabata station, easily recognizable because it is one of the stops on the Yamanote Line, which connects all the main touristic spots of the city with its circular route.

Your first stop will be the Tokakuji temple, a short walk from the station.
As this is the first temple of the pilgrimage, here you can buy the scroll representing the seven deities that will then be marked at each destination.
This temple houses Fukurokuji, a deity that, as the name suggests, is the god of wisdom, wealth and longevity. Often represented as a bald old man with a incredibly high forehead, he is accompanied by a crane and a turtle, both symbols of longevity. Sometimes a black deer is also present. His statue is placed in the garden at the back of the temple and is open to the public only at New Year’s.

Although the temple is dedicated to Fukurokuji, the first thing that will attract your attention at the entrance will be two Nio statues. These two statues stand guard at the temple also giving their protection to the sick who ask for their help. In fact it is believed that they have healing powers. If you suffer from some illness, buy the appropriate piece of red paper at the temple and attach it to the statue where you feel the pain. The deity will heal you.

Here, you can also buy a map of the walk, to make it easier for you to find the way.

Photo credits: flickr.com – realitycheck2002

The second stop is the Sei’un-ji temple, also known as Hanamidera. As the name suggests, the temple was, and still is today, a particularly suitable destination to see flowers blooming in spring. This is possible thanks to the cherry trees and the azaleas planted here in the 18th century. The temple is dedicated to the god Ebisu, the youngest of the seven, god of commerce and protector of fishermen and workers, but also of young children.

Just a few steps away, there is the third temple of the pilgrimage, the Shusei-in temple that hosts Hotei. This deity, also known as the laughing Buddha, is represented as a bald man, with a round belly and a good-natured smile, who is often surrounded by children. Hotei could be associated with our Santa Claus as he brings gifts that bestows especially to children.
The statue of Hotei in the Shusei-in temple is particularly beautiful. Stop to pray at it, but also to admire the painted murals that characterize the temple.

Photo credits: japantoday.com

A bit more difficult to find is the Choan-ji temple, your next stop.
Here finds his home Jurojin, deity of longevity. Because of the similarities they share even in they way they are represented, Jurojin is often identified with Fukurokuji. But here is also possible to find Itabi, statues erected to preserve the repose of the souls of the dead during the Kamakura (1185-1333) and Muromachi (1336-1573) period. The Choan-ji temple houses three of them dating back to this period.

After this temple, head to Yanaka Cemetery and your next destination will be the Tennoji temple. It will welcome you with a large statue of a seated Buddha dating back to the late 1600s placed at its entrance. But your main objective will be a small shrine on your right. Here is housed Bishamonte, the warrior god represented with a spear and a pagoda in his hands, symbols of his dual nature. He is the god of warriors who punishes the wicked, and the association with the peaceful preacher Buddha should not surprise you. Bishamonten, also known as Tamonten, is also the protector of the places where Buddha preaches.
The second to last stop of this pilgrimage is the Gokoku-in temple, home of the god Daikokuten, deity of wealth and crops, but also protector of the house and in particular of the kitchen. A particular note goes to a small stage in the courtyard in front of the temple used for representations in honor of the deity.

The last destination, perhaps the most beautiful one, will take you through the Ueno park to reach the Shinobazu pond and the Bentendo temple.
Benten is housed in this temple, goddess of the arts and music. This deity is said to be happier when surrounded by water, which is why the temple is near this pond, and her symbol is a lute. Benten is also the divinity of knowledge and wisdom so, those who wish to succeed at work or in an exam pay a visit to her.
Although the temple is just a modern reconstruction, it remains faithful to the original structure and is particularly recognizable thanks to its bright colors. Dominant are red, white and teal.

Photo credits: flickr.com – Toshihiro Gamo

Here the pilgrimage ends, but along the way there are plenty of distractions that will make your journey even more enjoyable.

Along the walk

Photo credits: Japan Italy Bridge

Along the way you will find a myriad of other small Buddhist and Shinto temples.
Take a stroll through the ancient district of Yanaka Ginza, just behind Nippori station, and stop to eat something at one of the many traditional kiosks in the area.
Just outside Yanaka you will find the small Kyooji temple where you can still see bullet holes on its central gate. These marks seem to date back to the battle of Ueno in 1868, during which the Imperial troops drove away from Edo the troops loyal to the shogun.
Yanaka cemetery will then give you a place to stop and rest. A place of peace that will surprise you even more during the cherry blossom.
And don’t forget the Ueno Park, a little ‘green jewel’ in the heart of Tokyo. A destination renowned for its wonderful cherry blossom and the famous Ueno Zoo with its pandas.

Photo credits: Japan Italy Bridge

In the park, among other temples, there is also the Toshogu shrine with its pagoda, that is dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu. Between April and May it will also be possible to enter the beautiful garden that houses a small but impressive peony collection, one of the most loved flowers in Japan.

There are also museums and traditional shops, on a journey to discover a Tokyo that is a little bit different from what we are used to, but certainly equally fascinating.[:ja]

Hidden Tokyo: pilgrimage in search of good fortune.

Photo credits: japaneseprints.livejournal.com  

The relationship that Japan has with religion, and with spirituality in particular, is very peculiar. It is discrete, sometimes hidden, but it is an ever-present bond
made of everyday gestures and rituals. Sometimes, in particular occasions or in difficult moments, Japanese people pay a visit to this or that deity asking for protection and benevolence. Among the most revered deities in the whole country there are the ‘Seven Gods of Fortune’, in japanese Shichi Fukuji (七福神).It is therefore not unusual to find short pilgrimage routes in honor of these gods.

These seven deities arrived in Japan centuries ago and are the result of a slow process of assimilation. A process that saw Buddhism, Hinduism, Taoism and Shinto blend together. Walking through a fixed course reaching the temples of all the seven divinities, the pilgrim collects seven stamps or inscriptions to commemorate the visit.
These pilgrimages are more frequent during the first two weeks of the year. In fact, this is the period in which, according to ancient Japanese traditions, the seven deities land on the shore with their ‘ship of treasures’ distributing gifts and good fortune to everyone.

Only in Tokyo there are more than 20 such pilgrimage courses, and the one we want to talk about this time will take you on a journey of discovery through Yanaka.
Yanaka is a small pearl dating back to the Edo period, set among tall buildings, shopping streets and the famous Ueno park. Its ancient heart has been kept untouched, and is often the destination of many tourists who want to find in the great metropolis a taste of its past.

Pilgrimage through Yanaka

Photo credits: flickr.com – Patrick Kenawy

This path through Yanaka starts from Tabata station, easily recognizable because it is one of the stops on the Yamanote Line, which connects all the main touristic spots of the city with its circular route.

Your first stop will be the Tokakuji temple, a short walk from the station.
As this is the first temple of the pilgrimage, here you can buy the scroll representing the seven deities that will then be marked at each destination.
This temple houses Fukurokuji, a deity that, as the name suggests, is the god of wisdom, wealth and longevity. Often represented as a bald old man with a incredibly high forehead, he is accompanied by a crane and a turtle, both symbols of longevity. Sometimes a black deer is also present. His statue is placed in the garden at the back of the temple and is open to the public only at New Year’s.

Although the temple is dedicated to Fukurokuji, the first thing that will attract your attention at the entrance will be two Nio statues. These two statues stand guard at the temple also giving their protection to the sick who ask for their help. In fact it is believed that they have healing powers. If you suffer from some illness, buy the appropriate piece of red paper at the temple and attach it to the statue where you feel the pain. The deity will heal you.

Here, you can also buy a map of the walk, to make it easier for you to find the way.

Photo credits: flickr.com – realitycheck2002

The second stop is the Sei’un-ji temple, also known as Hanamidera. As the name suggests, the temple was, and still is today, a particularly suitable destination to see flowers blooming in spring. This is possible thanks to the cherry trees and the azaleas planted here in the 18th century. The temple is dedicated to the god Ebisu, the youngest of the seven, god of commerce and protector of fishermen and workers, but also of young children.

Just a few steps away, there is the third temple of the pilgrimage, the Shusei-in temple that hosts Hotei. This deity, also known as the laughing Buddha, is represented as a bald man, with a round belly and a good-natured smile, who is often surrounded by children. Hotei could be associated with our Santa Claus as he brings gifts that bestows especially to children.
The statue of Hotei in the Shusei-in temple is particularly beautiful. Stop to pray at it, but also to admire the painted murals that characterize the temple.

Photo credits: japantoday.com

A bit more difficult to find is the Choan-ji temple, your next stop.
Here finds his home Jurojin, deity of longevity. Because of the similarities they share even in they way they are represented, Jurojin is often identified with Fukurokuji. But here is also possible to find Itabi, statues erected to preserve the repose of the souls of the dead during the Kamakura (1185-1333) and Muromachi (1336-1573) period. The Choan-ji temple houses three of them dating back to this period.

After this temple, head to Yanaka Cemetery and your next destination will be the Tennoji temple. It will welcome you with a large statue of a seated Buddha dating back to the late 1600s placed at its entrance. But your main objective will be a small shrine on your right. Here is housed Bishamonte, the warrior god represented with a spear and a pagoda in his hands, symbols of his dual nature. He is the god of warriors who punishes the wicked, and the association with the peaceful preacher Buddha should not surprise you. Bishamonten, also known as Tamonten, is also the protector of the places where Buddha preaches.
The second to last stop of this pilgrimage is the Gokoku-in temple, home of the god Daikokuten, deity of wealth and crops, but also protector of the house and in particular of the kitchen. A particular note goes to a small stage in the courtyard in front of the temple used for representations in honor of the deity.

The last destination, perhaps the most beautiful one, will take you through the Ueno park to reach the Shinobazu pond and the Bentendo temple.
Benten is housed in this temple, goddess of the arts and music. This deity is said to be happier when surrounded by water, which is why the temple is near this pond, and her symbol is a lute. Benten is also the divinity of knowledge and wisdom so, those who wish to succeed at work or in an exam pay a visit to her.
Although the temple is just a modern reconstruction, it remains faithful to the original structure and is particularly recognizable thanks to its bright colors. Dominant are red, white and teal.

Photo credits: flickr.com – Toshihiro Gamo

Here the pilgrimage ends, but along the way there are plenty of distractions that will make your journey even more enjoyable.

Along the walk

Photo credits: Japan Italy Bridge

Along the way you will find a myriad of other small Buddhist and Shinto temples.
Take a stroll through the ancient district of Yanaka Ginza, just behind Nippori station, and stop to eat something at one of the many traditional kiosks in the area.
Just outside Yanaka you will find the small Kyooji temple where you can still see bullet holes on its central gate. These marks seem to date back to the battle of Ueno in 1868, during which the Imperial troops drove away from Edo the troops loyal to the shogun.
Yanaka cemetery will then give you a place to stop and rest. A place of peace that will surprise you even more during the cherry blossom.
And don’t forget the Ueno Park, a little ‘green jewel’ in the heart of Tokyo. A destination renowned for its wonderful cherry blossom and the famous Ueno Zoo with its pandas.

Photo credits: Japan Italy Bridge

In the park, among other temples, there is also the Toshogu shrine with its pagoda, that is dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu. Between April and May it will also be possible to enter the beautiful garden that houses a small but impressive peony collection, one of the most loved flowers in Japan.

There are also museums and traditional shops, on a journey to discover a Tokyo that is a little bit different from what we are used to, but certainly equally fascinating.[:]