When planning a trip to Japan, June is often approached with a bit of anxiety. The reason? It is the month of Tsuyu (or Baiu), Japan’s infamous “rainy season.” But before you clear your calendar or give up hope, you should know that this period hides a unique poetry and an intimate charm that you won’t find at any other time of the year.

Literally, Tsuyu translates to “plum rain” because it coincides with the season when Japanese plums (ume) ripen on the trees. We aren’t talking about violent monsoons, but rather a steady, gentle drizzle, misty skies, and a suspended atmosphere that turns the landscape into an impressionist canvas.

Here is how to survive, and more importantly, fall in love with June in Japan.

The Magic of Hydrangeas (Ajisai)

If spring belongs to the cherry blossoms, Tsuyu belongs to the Ajisai (hydrangeas). The rain wakes up these extraordinary flowers, which bloom in incredible shades of blue, purple, pink, and white, decorating temples and gardens.

There are entire temples dedicated to hydrangeas, known as Ajisai-dera. If you are traveling during this time, two stops are an absolute must:

• Kamakura: The Meigetsu-in temple transforms into a sea of blue hydrangeas, beautifully framing the ancient wooden structures.
• Kyoto: The Mimuroto-ji temple in Uji boasts over 20,000 plants, offering a breathtaking visual spectacle, especially when the petals are glistening with rain.

The Traveler’s “Survival Kit”

Navigating Tokyo or Kyoto during Tsuyu just takes a little bit of smart planning. Here are three allies that will save your day:

1. The Transparent Konbini Umbrella: Don’t pack one from home. The moment it starts drizzling, step into a 7-Eleven or Lawson and buy a classic clear plastic umbrella for just a few hundred yen. They are large, sturdy, and allow you to look up at Tokyo’s skyscrapers and neon lights while staying completely dry.
2. Entrance Umbrella Holders: In Japan, cleanliness is sacred. Outside every shop, hotel, or temple, you will find plastic sleeve dispensers for your wet umbrella, or specialized umbrella lockers. Never walk inside a building with a dripping umbrella!
3. Coin Laundries: Humidity is high, and drying clothes in your hotel room can be tough. Take advantage of the super convenient automatic coin laundries scattered everywhere—within half an hour, your clothes will be perfectly dry and fresh.

What to Do When It Rains Hard?

Tsuyu is the perfect excuse to indulge in all those indoor activities that usually get sidelined when rushing from one shrine to another:

• Digital Art Museums: Spaces like teamLab Planets in Tokyo feel even more magical on a rainy day.
• Onsen and Sentō: Soaking in a piping hot thermal bath while it rains outside and the air is crisp is one of the most rejuvenating experiences you can have.
• Shopping and Themed Cafés: Explore the covered shopping streets (Shotengai) or seek refuge in a Kissaten (a traditional Japanese coffee shop) to sip matcha tea while listening to the sound of raindrops.

The next time you think of June in Japan, don’t just picture puddles. Instead, dream of glowing lanterns, quiet temples shrouded in mist, and the melancholic beauty of a country that knows how to be gorgeous even under a cloud.